Whether you are a bride or a pro makeup artist, your greatest challenge will be turning the moment at the mirror into a lasting affair. Let's uncover what makes eye-shadow, lipstick and foundation stand up to the beating from summer heat, kisses, hugs, tears and the dance floor frenzy.
Face First: When home decorating, you never paint over wallpaper, because when it peels off, so will your new color-the same is true for skin. Before makeup, the skin should be freshly washed, moisturized and free from dry flakes that could shed later along with your makeup. A smooth surface also invites products to blend on evenly. Pop open your kitchen cupboard and snag your oatmeal to mix it with a little water in your hand. Then gently massage the paste over the face and lips to leave your skin silky and free from traces of pesky dry skin. Most people who complain of cakey foundation, missed out on this crucial prep-step. Product pals: for normal to oily skin, Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream. For dry skin, Cetaphil Ultra Hydrating Lotion (let moisturizers soak in for 20 minutes before you begin applying makeup)
Prime Time: All you satin-lovers listen up! Despite their popularity, the silicone-based primers aren't the best friend of lasting wedding makeup. The texture of these products is unquestionably silky but they often create a barrier between the skin and the foundation, keeping makeup from clinging to the skin. Some airbrush foundations, which are a top choice among brides, won't apply at all with the silicone primers backing them up.
Product pals: for dry to normal skin, try silicone-free Korres Face Primer. For oily skin, use Smashbox Anti-Shine or a thin layer of Milk of Magnesia (yes you heard me right-both products pack a power punch for oil control with the ingredient magnesium silicate) Apply after moisturizer and before foundation.
Eyes for You: How do we get that budge-proof eye-shadow? After your cleansing routine, apply moisturizer only to the area below the lower lash line to prepare for your concealer, not on your upper lid where the shadow goes. Also avoid the age-old habit of using foundation or concealer on the upper lids as a base for shadow; they are also too emollient. What to use then? The market is flooded with hundreds of eye-shadow primers but most are too creamy or slippery with silicone. But you can usually count on camouflage products or primers that are truly formulated as waterproof. Product pals: Makeup Forever Full Cover Extreme Camouflage cream or an all-time favorite, Laura Mercier Eye Basics.
Ace your Base: Oil means slide. So even if you have dry skin, go for oil-free foundations. Just moisturize as needed before the foundation. You can even powder the skin before you apply foundation, and after primer, to be sure take charge of your oils. Product pals: Kett Hydro Airbrush Foundation (for medium to full coverage), MAC Face and Body Foundation (for sheer coverage). Steer clear of foundations with SPF; their active ingredient provokes a flash attack in photography, turning the face white and ashy compared to the rest of the body.
Conceal Deal: But what if I cry? This is a bride's first response when the under-eye concealer comes out. Some hold up to the tears, while others wash away. The liquid wand ones are less of a fighter against watershed so grab the cream/camouflage formulas or the liquid ones in tubes that are known to be waterproof. Product pals: Makeup Forever Full Cover Exreme Camouflage (not marketing for under eyes but it's a favourite), Kett Fixx Crème.
Place Setting: For most pro makeup artists, the step of using a blot powder to set or seal any wet products is second nature. But the average woman can be new to this notion. Just know that any place you've applied creamy or liquid makeup products should be finished with a sheer blot powder to keep the product from moving and let the colors glide on more smoothly. Whisk blot powder over the eyelid base and foundation. Product pal: MAC Blot Powder (compact)
Colour Power: High pigment are words that define the finest of products that truly offer colour intensity strong enough to show up and last on the face. A bride doesn't want a clown effect but when you want a subtle wash of color, it needs to stay. Only the best pigmented products will past the test. Powder eye-shadows and blushes will last longer than cream formulas. When you choose colors, pay attention to how many times you have to run the testers over the backside of your hand before shades stand out. More than once means weak pigments that will wear off quickly. If you use a cream eye-shadow or blush, set it with a layer of powder in the same color for extra color strength. Product pals: eyeshadows by MAC, Makeup Forever and blushes by Annabelle, MAC and Nars.
Pencil Pushing: Why does eyeliner smudge? Most women are surprised to discover that stroking on eyeliner pencil doesn't offer insurance that the line will be there a few hours later. Pencils are waxy, creamy products; left on their own, they'll smudge off. To lock in their pigment, trace over them with eye-shadow in the same color. Also use only waterproof pencils. Non-pencil fans who like a sharper line, should skip the watery liquid liners and go for the easy-to-blend gel liners. Set those too with shadow. Product pals: Annabelle Smoothliners, Makeup Forever Aqua Eyes pencils, Bobbi Brown Long-wear Gel liners.
Lash Blast: Give the eyelashes a long term flip up with a double dose of curling. Curl before mascara, then at the end of your makeup session when the first coat is dry, re-curl, then apply another mascara coat. For courses lashes that refuse to bend, heat your curler with a blow dryer-test it first to be sure it's cooled a little. To keep the metal curler from sticking to the lashes, dust it with some powder. You can even leave your lower lashes free of mascara if you expect Niagara style tears. Product pals: Shu Uemura eyelash curler (the Cadillac of curlers), Cover Girl Lash Blast mascara (one of a few waterproof formulas that isn't too watery)
Lip Lock: Many brides swear that they only wear lip gloss. This can be a fine plan if you have it ready every 10 minutes to top up your look, but it's not a practical choice on a wedding day. Lipsticks are a favorite because they have strong pigment and, unlike the long-wear stains, they won't dry out your lips. Start your lip coverage with foundation to block out the natural lip color, leaving way for the lipstick's true color. Set that with blot powder. Color in the lips with a pencil base, followed by a lipstick in the same shade. Blot lips with a tissue to lift the extra oils, leaving only pigment behind. Follow with a second lipstick coat, a lighter blotting, then finish with a dab of gloss only in the center of the lip for highlight. Note: Before your gloss you could apply a lip sealant that is alcohol based but they can take the nice sheen out of your lipstick, leaving a matte finish. Product pals: lip pencils by MAC, Maybelline, Rimmel, Annabelle. Lipsticks by MAC. Lip Sealant by NYC.
Brow Freeze: Brows sometimes barely get a glance during many makeovers, but they beg as much attention as any other feature. Fill them in with powder, not pencil, so their look is natural. Keep the shadow from running by combing them with clear waterproof mascara. Product pal: any brand of waterproof clear mascara. (Caboodles was a favorite if you can still get it.)
Some brides believe the products you use are what draws gasps in front of the mirror at 2:00 am when they discover how remarkably in-place their face remains. Others will insist it's the technique you use to apply it. And still another group will sing the praises of order and how the art has to follow some path of logic in a step-by-step routine to reach the ranks of high endurance. The answer is all of the above. Whether you are a pro or a bride styling your own look, you'll not want to miss any of these stages that wedding makeup artists have come to rely on for lasting bridal beauty.
Colette is not sponsored or paid by any cosmetics company. Any product endorsements are based on her expert opinion of their performance in pro applications.
